On to another adventure with Sam. After a successful visit to Taiwan, it was time to return to Asia: Destination Viet Nam. Walter Cronkite showed me Viet Nam every night from 1965 til 1975. The names of the cities, villages and areas of Viet Nam echo in my mind.
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| Ready to fly |
The flight from Atlanta to Seoul was all daylight. I saw the ice breaking up on Lake Superior and a lot of Siberia. Clouds closed in as we flew into the area where the snow had melted. No view of the Great Wall for me.
Ho Chi Minh City. The smell of the city hits you in the airport and follows you everywhere you go. I have never been anywhere that smells as good as Viet Nam. Someone is always cooking something just up there, around the corner, down that alley, through that door. Whatever it is, it sure smells good.
Three days on a scooter built for a person 5’6” tall, 150 lbs. Three months later, I still have stripes on my feet from sunburn through my sandals. Seldom have I experienced the exhilaration I got from driving that scooter through Viet Nam. First time driving in NYC, maybe. Parasailing in Peru, probably. Buffaloes in the road. 10 meter visibility fog. Incredibly beautiful scenery on all sides.
We stopped at the Military Cemetery in Huong Dien. It struck me that I had the same feeling there that I had when I visited Arlington National Cemetery. Honorable men who died fighting for their country.
The tunnel complex at Vinh Moc, three levels dug by hand in solid basalt, were all I needed to see to understand why North Viet Nam was victorious. Iron will and determination proved undefeatable. I enjoyed going through the tunnels, but they are not for the claustrophobic. 1.5 meter tall, ½ meter wide in most places. I went through crouched and bumping the sides.
Down the Ho Chi Minh Trail to Khe Sanh, last stop on the gloom and doom tour. This famed trail is now Highway 2. Smooth, well maintained, with an occasional truck burning in the ditch.
On to Da Nang and China Beach. Marble Mountain of 4,382 steps. Many of the stalagmites look just like Buddha, amazing.
Spent a couple of days in Hoi An partying with Sam’s friends, mostly Brits, but fun to hang with. Eat, drink, rest and get a massage. The hot stone massage burned, hurt and gave me a killer headache. The next day, however, I felt great. $25 for a 40 minute massage. I highly recommend it.
Ho Chi Minh City. The smell of the city hits you in the airport and follows you everywhere you go. I have never been anywhere that smells as good as Viet Nam. Someone is always cooking something just up there, around the corner, down that alley, through that door. Whatever it is, it sure smells good.
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| Food, food, everywhere! |
Three days on a scooter built for a person 5’6” tall, 150 lbs. Three months later, I still have stripes on my feet from sunburn through my sandals. Seldom have I experienced the exhilaration I got from driving that scooter through Viet Nam. First time driving in NYC, maybe. Parasailing in Peru, probably. Buffaloes in the road. 10 meter visibility fog. Incredibly beautiful scenery on all sides.
We stopped at the Military Cemetery in Huong Dien. It struck me that I had the same feeling there that I had when I visited Arlington National Cemetery. Honorable men who died fighting for their country.
The tunnel complex at Vinh Moc, three levels dug by hand in solid basalt, were all I needed to see to understand why North Viet Nam was victorious. Iron will and determination proved undefeatable. I enjoyed going through the tunnels, but they are not for the claustrophobic. 1.5 meter tall, ½ meter wide in most places. I went through crouched and bumping the sides.
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| Watch your head |
Down the Ho Chi Minh Trail to Khe Sanh, last stop on the gloom and doom tour. This famed trail is now Highway 2. Smooth, well maintained, with an occasional truck burning in the ditch.
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| Ho Chi Minh Trail |
On to Da Nang and China Beach. Marble Mountain of 4,382 steps. Many of the stalagmites look just like Buddha, amazing.
Spent a couple of days in Hoi An partying with Sam’s friends, mostly Brits, but fun to hang with. Eat, drink, rest and get a massage. The hot stone massage burned, hurt and gave me a killer headache. The next day, however, I felt great. $25 for a 40 minute massage. I highly recommend it.
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| Hoi An lanterns |
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| The stuff of nightmares |
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| Coffee in Hoi An |
Flying out of Da Nang for Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. The revetment for the F4 Phantoms are still on the tarmac at Da Nang.
Traffic in Siem Reap was thicker and more berserk than any I saw in Viet Nam. The temples at Angkor Wat are beautiful, awe inspiring and overwhelming. After being surprised by elephants coming up the trail, the 112 degree heat became unbearable. Back to the hotel for A/C, shower and a nap. Khmer BBQ and Angkor beer for dinner. Very good.
Sunrise at Angkor Wat is worth the early start. Omelet sandwich and coffee for breakfast. Cambodian and Viet Namese coffee are the best. I wonder how they make it so good? Dinner and a floor show of Khmer song and dance. Tasty and entertaining.
We took a six hour bus ride to Phnom Penh. If you ever have the opportunity to make this trip, fly. Phnom Penh is a huge, bustling city. Some of the most interesting electrical systems I have ever seen hanging above a street.
We went to the ferry dock on the Mekong in the morning only to find that the boat was late. Bar open, beer cold, wait OK. During the boarding process, Sam went back to the office to get our lunches. Naturally, we left without her. Fortunately, we went back to the dock for her.
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| Left behind |
The ferry trip down the Mekong is great. The river is alive with commerce. Ships, ferries, sampans, people and industry everywhere.
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| Mekong River |
We arrived two hours late, but our guide, Mr Kao, was waiting to take us on a Mekong Delta tour. A two hour drive and ½ hour boat ride later, we arrived at our home stay and supper. Next morning, we went to the floating market for coffee, pineapples and souvenirs. Commerce never rests. After a walking tour of downtown whatever town we were in, we boated off to another restaurant for lunch and a tour of one of the Delta islands. And of course more food with tea and local honey. All I do is eat and drink. Life is good.
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| Floating coffee delivery |
Back to the car for the drive back to Ho Chi Minh City. We took the toll road, 62km at 60 km/hr. Highest speed limit in Viet Nam.
Dinner at the Ghetto Food Court. Three blocks from Sam’s house and I am completely lost. The last day and a half in Viet Nam are a blur. Went to the Post Office for trinkets and a book of inspirational war posters. Had weasel coffee, only $9 per cup. Probably more at their store in NYC. Took a tour of Sam’s school. A beautiful facility.
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| Weasel coffee |
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| Ms Samantha's class |
Happy hour at the Deck and dinner next door. Flagged a taxi, said goodbye and off to the airport. 29 hours on a plane and back in Alabama. I’m ready to go again. Riot Fest in Chicago, 12-14 Sep 14. See you there.
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| One last "cheers" to Vietnam! |
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