Saturday, September 14, 2013

Sa Pa


Wanting to get away from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi, Lauren, John, and I boarded a night train to Lao Cai, with Sa Pa in our sights.  Lao Cai is located along the Vietnam-China border, and it was our meeting point with our Sa Pa guide, Hao.


Lauren and John wait patiently for the night train


A bumpy van ride out into the middle of nowhere, a few moments to slather on sunscreen, and a wave from the driver, and we set off on a three-day adventure into the depths (and heights!) of our Sa Pa Trek

Follow the yellow brick road


As we hiked through the mountains and rice fields of the sparsely populated region, our faithful guide Hao offered some ‘short cuts’ to save time.  After only an hour of hiking, we were covered in sweat, so short cuts could not be refused.  But these were no ordinary short cuts.  While the paths we took certainly shortened our horizontal distance, the vertical distance could not be avoided, and was in fact forced upon us in mere minutes.  I swear to god we climbed 1,000 feet in two minutes.  Ok, maybe not quite, but the short cuts left me sucking air and covered in mud.

But then we got to see this!

Mountaintop views

Bamboo fence post


Sa Pa region terraced rice fields

Safety rail

Red Dzao woman taking a break

One of our trusty porters

Uhhhh, yeah... that's for real


Our first day of the trek, we did not see another foreigner even once after leaving the Lao Cai city limits.  We hardly saw any people at all, to be honest.  It was just us and the Vietnam mountains.  And occasionally a surprised villager or two.

Along the way, we passed through a couple of villages of local people.  There are several hill tribes that live in the Sa Pa highlands.  When we encountered a Red Dzao settlement, Hao asked permission for us to enter one of their homes.  Hardly any furniture, but they had satellite TV!

Red Dzao woman and her son outside their home

Red Dzao women and children
Hao lends a hand to a Red Dzao couple building a roadside retaining wall


When we stopped (collapsed) for lunch, we were spied by a group of children from the local village.  They wouldn’t come very close to us at first, hiding around the corner of the old schoolhouse porch where we had sat for our picnic lunch.  But after a few rounds of chase, lots of laughter, and the promise of candy, the kids warmed to us.


Pit stop for lunch


Village kids peaking around the corner at us

New friends


We also got up close and personal with some interesting wildlife.

Roaming horses

Moo

Ox

Albino water buffalo

Animal kingdom in action -- billy goat gruff fight


Before the first day was over, we hiked back down the mountain, across a river, and straight back up the other side of the mountain through a bamboo forest.  I’m gonna be honest -- I was not a happy hiker at this point.  I made feeble attempts to mask my need for frequent breathing stops as we scaled hundreds of feet in less than an hour by pretending to stop to look out at the views.  I really did look at the views, but mostly I was just trying to take in adequate amounts of oxygen.

We hiked down to that river and back up the other side!


We arrived to our homestay in an odd mix of complete exhaustion and total exhilaration.  The overnight stay was scheduled in a Red Dzao village, in a home of a local family.  They offered us access to their shower (a bucket inside a wooden shack), toilet (a squatter outhouse that “flushed” out over the ridge), and their home (a large lofted home -- with satellite TV!). 

Our home for the night.  We bunked upstairs in the loft.

Homestay driveway

Guard dog

Water tank, "shower", and the outhouse down the hill

Grandkids at the homestay
The little guy in front cried nonstop

Our gracious host
(little guy still crying)


Hao and our porters helped cook us a delicious dinner with far too much food.  And of course, our Red Dzao host grandpa came around with the rice wine to top off the night.  Then it was off to bed early, to sleep in the loft beneath a mosquito net.

Next morning we set off in a light rain that turned into a fairly constant drizzle throughout the day.  Aside from the obvious drawbacks of a rainy mountain hike, the precipitation also provided me with several monster blisters.  Good thing we got to see all this to make up for it!!

Mountain village

Halfway through day 2.... still so far to go!

Breathtaking
(and not just because we hiked all the way up there)

Rice fields 

Sa Pa pals!

Stilt house
Should have asked for a ride


Hao negotiated us another invitation inside a minority home, this time the house of a Sapho family.  The husband told us the village was so remote that they often went hungry due to lack of supplies.  He also reported that their most valuable possession was a scrawny ox tied up out back.

Sapho woman outside her home

Sapho village house


Before our trekking adventure came to an end, we spent a couple hours hiking through the terraced rice fields.  And I truly mean we hiked through them.  Of course we didn’t want to walk in the pools of water, damaging the rice, so we teetered along the built-up edges of the terraces, using our best balancing skills (and my best foul language skills).  I’m not very coordinated.  And I don’t like getting dirty.  Ha, should have thought about that before signing up for this trip!

Hiking through the terraces


After Hao guided us across the most terrifying bridge ever half-way built over a gushing river, we wandered into a local Tay village, where we stopped for lunch, followed by a ride to the EcoLodge.  A well-deserved indulgence, the EcoLodge provided hot showers and super-fluffy beds.  And air conditioning!! 

A most delicious lunch of beef noodle soup

Pathway to our cabins at the EcoLodge

EcoLodge

View from our back porch

More back porch views

Much-needed relaxation

Red Dzao women outside the EcoLodge
Very aggressive salespeople! 


The next day, well-rested, freshly scrubbed, and feet covered in Band Aids, we took a shuttle into town to explore Sa Pa proper.  The town is overrun with tourists, and it made me so happy we’d opted for the private trek through remote areas.  While it’s convenient to have English menus at coffee shops, not encountering other non-Vietnamese people for 48 hours was a welcome escape.

Roadside market, Sa Pa

Minority women selling wares in Sa Pa

Outside the market

Black Dzao women

Sa Pa

Black Dzao woman and baby


And I can’t end this tale without one more food pic.  This scrumptious meal was served to us from a street stand in Lao Cai before we boarded the night train back to Hanoi.  

'Mini' ban xeo and nem chua dinner

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

How Living Abroad Can Make You A Better Person

Today’s post is written for the Reach To Teach Teach Abroad Blog Carnival, a monthly series that focuses on providing helpful tips and advice to ESL teachers around the globe. I'll be posting a new ESL-related article on my blog on the 10th of every month. Check back for more articles, and if you'd like to contribute to next month's Blog Carnival, please get in touch with me, and I'll let you know how you can start participating! To read other blogs from this month's Carnival, click here!



Living abroad definitely wasn’t on my radar.  I was more than content living in America, teaching at a fabulous public school in Milwaukee, being surrounded by English speakers, eating real cheese and Mexican food, and driving my car.  But then a hefty round of education budget cuts caused me to lose my job.  I was devastated; I would not have left that job by choice -- like I said, it was a fabulous school.  

But the silver lining was that it gave me a big push to take the opportunity to do something completely new.  Within a few months of being told I was SOL about trying to keep my beloved job, I had packed my entire apartment into my stepmom’s basement, bought an incredibly expensive one-way plane ticket to a tiny island in the Far East, and said “see you later” to my friends and family.

It’s now been two years since I moved abroad.  I lived for over a year in Taiwan, and now here I am living in Vietnam.  Looking back at the time I’ve spent living in foreign lands, I wouldn’t trade my experiences for anything.  I know I’ve changed and grown as a person, even if just in small ways.  How could you move across the globe and not change?

I would encourage anyone to consider taking the opportunity to live abroad.  It’s a great lifestyle, getting to travel the world, experience different cultures, eat exotic foods, and learn new languages.  But beyond all the fun, it can also make you a better person.

Friend Request
Even if you move abroad with a friend or partner, you’re going to have to make new friends.  Not having a group of buddies to call up and hang out with is an unsettling feeling, but a highly motivating one as well.  Making the effort to be friendly and striking up conversations with people you’ve never met are necessary for building a friend base.  

Luckily, most of the people you meet abroad are like-minded, open people who know exactly what you’re going through being in a new country.  And you’ll make life-long connections with people from across the globe.  No matter what, you’ll always share a very unique experience.  And just think -- if you can make all these new friends because you had to do it, you can make new friends any time you like, just because you want to!

Liquid Courage
When I starting telling people about my upcoming big move, above all others, the most common response I got was some variation of, “Wow! You’re so brave!”

There’s a reason that less than 40% of Americans are passport holders, and even fewer actually use them beyond Mexican beach resorts and Caribbean cruises: it’s a big, scary world out there.  Living squarely inside your comfort zone is just fine, but you won’t grow.  Facing challenges and jumping headlong towards new experiences are the best ways to see what you’re really made of.  And maybe you’ll discover something incredible about yourself.  Or perhaps you’ll recognize an area in your life you want to change, improve, or develop.

If you never felt like a brave person before living abroad, take the new label and wear it proudly like a badge of honor.  If you can step off a plane in a distant country knowing little to nothing about the culture, local language, job you’ll have, apartment where you’ll live, or even how you’ll hail a cab from the airport to the hotel -- all after enduring 24 hours of transoceanic travel -- if you can do this, you can do ANYTHING!

Bloom Where You’re Planted
Like I said before, I was crushed when I found out I was losing my job teaching in Milwaukee Public Schools.  But I discovered something about two months into my teaching gig in Taiwan: I love teaching.  Period.  

It was a big realization for me that my happiness depended far less on my location than I previously thought.  I found that all the things that made me a happy little clam in my life in the US were available on the other side of the world, just in foreign packaging.  My friends were new, but just as amazing and loyal.  My job title changed, but still provided me with purpose and fulfillment.  My family was different, but now I had a home away from home.

I think this has been my biggest area of growth in my time living abroad: accepting that my plans may not always come to fruition, and that’s okay.  I kind of hate all those inspirational quotes about “letting go” and “enjoying the journey” but I must admit, there’s some truth there.  It’s been a hard lesson for me, as I’m a bit of a control freak.  But it’s also somewhat freeing, not being able to control everything.  It takes away some of the pressure to have a plan at all times.  Plus, plans gone astray -- that’s the whole reason I’m living abroad anyway!